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Paris, Île-de-France Pura Besakih Temps plein
"Whew, It's Getting A Little Warm" The Ups, And Downs Of Living On The Ring Of Fire.
"Whew, It's Getting A Little Warm" The Ups, And Downs Of Living On The Ring Of Fire. Its 8.00 am on a Friday morning here in Bali and, as usual, at this time of year the weather is picture perfect with not a cloud in the sky. A light breeze, soft as gossamer wafts across the terrace, taking the sting out of the morning heat.

Just Forty- seven kilometers away things are perhaps not so peaceful as farmers in the villages scramble to move their livestock off the slopes of the highest peak on the island, Mt.

Agung.
Mount Agung or Gunung Agun is the highest point on Bali. At 12,500 ft.

it is a spectacular structure which dominates the surrounding area peppered as it is with impossibly green rice terraces that tumble down its slopes.

Its position, on the eastern edge of the island means it influences the climate to the west bringing abundant rain to those self same terraces.

The Balinesebelieve that Mt Agung is a replica ofMt Meru , the central axis of the universe.

One of the many legends holds that the mountain is a fragment of Meru brought to Bali by the firstHindus.

Clinging precariously high on the slopes of the mountain is the most important temple on Bali, Pura Besakih or the 'mother temple' which every Balinese resident visits at least twice a year.

Gunung Agung last erupted over fifty years ago and has, since that time 'been asleep';
That is until now.

On February 18, 1963, local residents heard a series of loud explosions and saw clouds rising from the crater of the mountain.

On February 24, l ava began flowing down the northern slopes traveling over 7km down the side of the mountain over the next 20 days,
At that point the mountain went 'quiet.'

Many of the local inhabitants, believing that Agung had completed its eruption cycle slowly drifted back to their villages, farms and businesses.

How wrong they were

On March 17, without warning, the volcano erupted once again sending debris 8 to 10km into the atmosphere and, if that wasn't enough then generated massivepyroclastic flows swallowing scores of villages, and taking the lives of over 1,500 inhabitants Two days later, cold Lahars ( mud flows) caused by heavy rainfall after the eruption killed an additional 200.

A period of relative calm then ensued for a period of two months before a second, and far more violent eruption occurred on May 16, accompanied once again by massive pyroclastic flows that killed another 300 inhabitants.

Numerous Manku's (Balinese priests ) headed to the mountain to offer up prayers and sacrifices, often standing directly in the path of the approaching lava.

Miraculously, the lava flows missed, by just a few yards, the sacred Mother Temple of Besakih.

The saving of the temple is still regarded by Balinese as a signal from the gods as a demonstration their power but also to show their compassion by not destroying the temple that been erected to praise the mountain that was doing its level best to destroy it.

Bali is just one of the seventeen thousand islands that make up the archipelago that is Indonesia.

The country frequently experiences violent earthquakes and volcanic eruptions as it lies near an intersection of shifting tectonic plates, including the Pacific plate, Eurasian plate, Australian and Philippine plate.

It is one of the most seismically active zones on earth, with more active volcanoes than any other country on earth (136) including some of the world's most famous volcanoes, Krakatau (Krakatoa), Tambora, and Merapi.

Powerful earthquakes are a common occurrence here as typified by two powerful quakes in March 2005 and May 2006 taking the lives of thousands of people in the regions where they occurred.

Just sixteen years ago, on December 26th 2004, more than 220,000 people in Indonesia perished or classified as missing after a powerful undersea earthquake, off the large island of Sumatra generated a powerful tsunami.

This giant wave then travelled over 12, 000 miles across the Indian Ocean devastating communities as far afield as Thailand, India, Sri Lanka and Somalia.

Indonesia's largest ever eruption however was the explosive eruption of Mt. Tambora on the island of Sumbawa in 1815 and remains the greatest eruption in recorded history.

The explosion was heard more than 2000 Km away in Australia and, this deadly event killed over 71,000 people Starvation and disease was the cause of most of the deaths, as the eruptive fallout ruined agricultural production in the region and across most of the archipelago.

The devastation wasn't limited to just Indonesia as the ash cloud caused global climate anomalies, including a volcanic winter' phenomenon.

The year 1816 has become known as "the year without a summer' because of the eruption's effect on North American and European weather.

Crops failed and livestock died in much of the Northern Hemisphere, triggering the worst famine of the 19th century.

The National gallery in London has a wonderful collection of Turner and Constable paintings showing London experiencing spectacular sunsets that have never been seen since.

These sunsets were of course created by the tons of dust and ash in the atmosphere, courtesy of Mt Tambora.

Sunlight that penetrated the haze created a magical kaleidoscope of vibrant hues bathing the city in light made up of all of the colours in the spectrum

And so, on this morning when the world seems calm, just over the hills a giant mountain wheezes, rumbles and belches like a bellicose politician, threatening to disgorge countless tons of lava and ash.

Perhaps, this sacred mountain is simply rolling over in its sleep but, perhaps not as it might have woken up in a foul mood and will roar once more.

In the interim, we simply have to wait and see what nature will do, for it is a lot more powerful than us mere mortals.

Now that that's written, I think I'll have a nap

Paul v Walters is the best selling author of several novels and when he is not cocooned in sloth and procrastination in his house in Bali, he scribbles for several leading travel and vox pop journals around the globe.

His latest offering, Asset, should be released in early 2018.
Lisa Gallagher 6 tahun yang lalu #21
Paul Walters , very powerful- I had tons of imagery running through my mind as I read this.

I remember the Tsunami, for what ever reasons I was awake when the news first broke and I felt utter fear for everyone.

I don't think I ever heard the final death count, wow... that was horrible.

As for the earthquakes and Volcano's, it's true, never know when mother nature will decide to open up those gates again.

It's sad how many perished from the Volcano too. I hope the Mountain stays quiet for years to come.

I'm sure with all the hurricanes and devastation it must have made you think of what happened in Bali over a period of years.

Keep enjoying the great weather and no volcano's or Tsunami's allowed
Stephanie Brookes 6 tahun yang lalu #19
Thanks for the history on volcanoes. GOOD TO read the full story.

I too, will now retire pool side and wait for the water to rise in the pool and bounce out of the sides, then I will put on my N95 mask and await this ash cloud in Ubud, as we are 33 kms away (as the crow flies).

As of Oct 1 at 2.00pm - no eruption yet. The magma is moving, but as yet, no eruption.

We are all prepared in Ubud with masks and safety glasses (eyes are affected by the ash cloud and tiny shard-like glass that carries in the wind).

Life is going on as normal, today in Bali. Stephanie Brookes
David B. Grinberg 6 tahun yang lalu #17
Thanks for the blogging buzz, Paul. I always enjoy reading and learning from you about the history, culture and related information regarding other countries. For example, I didn't know Indonesia has 17,000 islands Wow, that's a lot.

I wonder how many are actually inhabited? Moreover, like many people, I recall the devastating tsunami through graphic and gruesome TV footage.

What a historic tragedy for so many people. I really hope that the volcano you write about remains relatively inactive. However, the "Ring of Fire" is known to have so-called flare up more than other places on the planet.

I tend to think that California is the next devastation zone for a major earthquake, as there hasn't been a really big one since the Northridge earthquake in 1994.

And seismologists say the Golden State is overdue to another big one. San Francisco, for example, hasn't had a devastating quake in over 100 years Anyhow, please stay safe in your tropical paradise for which we are all envious
Randall Burns 6 tahun yang lalu #16

Great article Paul Walters , I've been through that area of Bali and it is just beautiful but Volcanoes can be scary, hopefully Gunung Agun is just snoring but still fast asleep...

CityVP Manjit 6 tahun yang lalu #15
The same geological forces that have contributed to the beauty of Bali are the ones that create terrifying consequence.

I am of the Richard Feynman persuasion where beliefs in the mercy of Gods not to destroy a temple is replaced by the wisdom of the temple builders who may have located it at a lesser risk location.

Yet tsunami, volcanoes, earthquakes follow their own wave or path, so the best way to combat natural forces is to design in resilience.

It is not right that people still hold onto ancient beliefs that may preclude them from investing in earthquake proofing construction or not build a major settlement within reach of pyroclastic flows.

We know from volcanic history that a really severe eruption requires readiness to evacuate, as well as using sensor devices that improve predictability of disaster.

Nor do human beings pay attention to the behaviour and sensory intelligence of animals - because many animals begin to move away form impending tsuanmi's, it looks like that animal sense has a predictor capability that human beings have not yet figured out in terms of biomimicry.

All said, Bali is a beautiful place and sometimes is human beliefs which may be a disabler of resilience building.

Paul Walters 6 tahun yang lalu #13
#11
Debasish Majumder . Thank you as always
Paul Walters 6 tahun yang lalu #11
#12
Ken Boddie Duly noted Ken especially the G 7 T bit
Ken Boddie 6 tahun yang lalu #10

The wife is currently in Central Java, Pak Paul, and so I've just planned to re-route her back to Oz via Jakarta, instead of Denpasar.

This, of course, is in anticipation of a large Agunic ash cloud disrupting flights at some time in the not too distant future.

Tales of big bangs brings me back to my many encounters with eruptions and lava flows in days gone past, but one of the most interesting was when I was living in Cilacap in 1988 and Gunung Slamet erupted some 60km away (probably about the same distance as you are from Gunung Agung).

I don't remember the tremors and the minor shakes so much as the several days of darkness and the silent grey snow-like showers of fine silt sized ash, which, it appears, is highly abrasive.

It got everywhere (including many orifices where the sun doesn't shine) and those who were less fastidious, ignoring advice to change engine oil, etc, ended up with major vehicle breakdowns soon after things got back to semi-normal.

I trust you will be observing and recording proceedings from the safety of your hammock and that you will remember to cover up your gin and tonic against the intrusion of the pending grey silt.

Perhaps you might consider indulging in that rare pursuit of volcahology (cocktails with a bang) which, of course, must be shaken and not stirred.

Debasish Majumder 6 tahun yang lalu #9
lovely buzz Paul Walters enjoyed read and shared. thank you for the buzz.
Gert Scholtz 6 tahun yang lalu #8

Paul Walters On my visit to Bali years ago, I was struck by the calm and serenity of the land and the people.

Your post, as always so well written, shows a different side to it.

Nature has its ways of being calm yet forceful - and we don't know on a certain day which one it will be.

Thanks for a very interesting read Paul.
Pascal Derrien 6 tahun yang lalu #7
8.22 AM here in Ireland when I am reading this with a steamy hot cup of coffee, I was transported to Bali in no time with your opening paragraph not sure when I will come back volcano or not :-)
Ian Weinberg 6 tahun yang lalu #6
Thanks for another enlightening chapter Paul Walters I guess there's a price to pay for everything. Still not sure what's worse, the mountainous eruption or the human one. Still a great lure to laze around in a hammock, albeit with a crash-helmet
Ali Anani 6 tahun yang lalu #5
Not only camera takes pictures, but words can do too with their imagination power. A great journey to Bali by Paul Walters

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